Central yet somehow offbeat, densely populated and full of contrasts, Kypseli has gone from the glamour of the past to a period of decline in the early 2000s, when few people would have chosen it for a night out unless they lived nearby. Thankfully, the neighborhood has found new life and nowadays, Kypseli is vibrant, multicultural, unconventional and full of creativity and flavour.
Translation | Amaryllis Tsegou
At its heart are the pedestrian streets of Fokionos Negri and Agias Zoni, together with the ever-busy Municipal Market of Kypseli. Around them, new hangouts for every hour of the day keep popping up and going viral on social media. The result? People from every corner of Athens now fill the sidewalks and café tables.
The big boom began with the new-generation cafés and brunch spots - the ones outside which queues form on weekends and busy weekdays alike - and now continues with modern mezze taverns, restaurants and bars. Alongside them of course firmly stand the neighborhood’s timeless classics, each with its own loyal following.
This time, we headed to Kypseli and gathered the addresses that keep us coming back, from morning coffee to late-night drinks.
Coffee and brunch spots
Williwaw
Hip, Scandinavian-inspired and unmistakably Athenian at the same time, Williwaw is housed in a 1960s building on Kerkyra Street. It’s the kind of place you can visit from morning until late afternoon for excellent coffee roasted on-site - and naturally, you can take some home too.
Coffee is taken seriously here and served beautifully, whether in handmade clay cups or elegant glassware for the flat white, which I wholeheartedly recommend, especially if you love flat whites or freddo espresso. The pastries are equally thoughtful: cinnamon rolls, cardamom buns, babka, cakes, cookies and an unforgettable Basque cheesecake that you should order immediately if you’re lucky enough to find it available. Everything you could want alongside a really good coffee.
Williwaw. 69 Kerkyra St., Kypseli..Tel: (+30)210-82.20.745
Morning Sweetie
Instagrammable, relaxed and ideal for coffee, dessert or remote work, Morning Sweetie on Zakynthou Street stands out with its cheerful yellow-and-blue color palette and easygoing morning mood, greeting you.
You’ll probably stumble across it while walking around the busy Municipal Market of Kypseli. The coffee comes from a micro-roastery and is ground in-house, while beans are also available to buy for home use.
Breakfast options include yogurt bowls with homemade granola, chia puddings and sandwiches with various fillings, alongside soft cookies and layered cakes. The carrot cake, in particular, is excellent and absolutely worth trying.
Morning Sweetie. 13 Zakynthou St., Kypseli. Tel: (+30)211-73.54.924
Literature House
Kypseli’s urban energy could never exist without a proper book café. Literature House opened in 2020, during the pandemic, on Drosopoulou Street and immediately became a refuge from the noise of the city.
With high ceilings, bright colors, warm wooden details and a loft overlooking shelves full of books, it creates an atmosphere that instantly slows you down. You’ll find literature, plays, children’s books and plenty of vintage decorative touches, while the hidden courtyard at the back feels like stepping into another era altogether.
Literature House. 67 Ioannou Drosopoulou St., Kypseli. Tel: (+30)210-82.30.247
Bakeries and pastry shops we love
Bozas
On the corner of Kerkyra and Paxon Streets you’ll spot a pastry shop whose old-fashioned sign simply reads “Bozas.” Inside, there are no overloaded shelves or crowded displays. Everything has its place, exactly as it always has. Because things here are simple and honest. The selection is small but carefully chosen: everything is fresh, made in-house and produced in the workshop located directly above the shop.
Panagiotis Bozas works upstairs in the workshop from before dawn until early afternoon, producing a carefully selected range of pastries and sweets, all handmade and always fresh.
People come here for the tsoureki, Smyrna-style cookies, filled rusks, cakes, almond sweets and ergolavoi (almond meringue cookies) made with local almonds. The chocolate creations are equally tempting: kariokes, truffles, little pastries and chocolate rocks. The kourkoumpinia, kadaifi and ekmek kadaifi are excellent, while among the classic pastries the millefeuille, profiterole and truffle cake stand out.
Remoundos’ bakery
Among Kypseli’s wave of newer arrivals, there are still a few places that feel as though they’ve always been there — quiet witnesses to every phase the neighbourhood has gone through. Remoundos’ Bakery, which has been operating in Kypseli since 1953, is one of them.
Today, third-generation bakers Grigoris and Giorgos are the soul, mind and hands behind the bakery. Many of the recipes they still make come straight from their grandfather and father: traditional breads, soft moustokouloura, piroshki, loukoumades, Smyrna-style koulouria and tsourekia, raisin cookies, kourabiedes and Christmas melomakarona.
At the same time, the Remoundos family never stops experimenting. To avoid falling into routine, they regularly introduce new baked goods inspired by ingredients they discover at the Athens Central Market, which they visit often. Dried beetroot and spinach, for example, have found their way into excellent homemade breadsticks, while their love of pastourma led them to create a pastourma pie. They also have a clear affection for European pastry-making, so alongside the traditional Greek treats you’ll find financiers and buttery shortbread biscuits fresh from the oven.
Remoundos’ Bakery. 37 Kypselis St., Kypseli. Tel: (+30)210-82.15.808
Marili
Despite what many first assume, “Marili” is not a person’s name. In Georgian, the word means “salt” - the ingredient that ultimately gives flavor to life.
Located on Agia Zoni, one of Kypseli’s busiest pedestrian streets, Marili immediately draws you in with the smell of freshly baked Georgian breads and pastries. It was opened by Natia Nantairashvili, who wanted to introduce Athenians to the flavors she grew up with in Georgia. Inside, you can see the traditional Georgian oven where the breads are baked.
The signature item here is khachapuri, the rich cheese-filled bread that has become a staple of Georgian cuisine and vaguely recalls a Greek potato bread. The potato pie is also exceptional: served piping hot, with chewy dough and a filling reminiscent of my grandma’s homemade potato piroshki. And for anyone wanting something more familiar, the bakery also makes excellent classic piroshki.
Marili. 26 Agias Zonis St., Athens. Tel: (+30)211-42.52.269
Flake
With its bright orange details and minimalist aesthetic, Flake stands out immediately on Sporadon Street. From early morning, the bakery turns out sourdough breads made with wholegrain flour and bran, some of which also find their way into the pastries and baked snacks sold to-go.
Among the standouts is the focaccia topped with cherry tomatoes and feta, which slightly recalls the traditional ladenia (the traditional tomato flatbread from the Greek island of Kimolos). Their babkas and brioche rolls, filled with more inventive flavor combinations, are also especially popular.
Flake. 24 Sporadon St., Kypseli. Tel: (+30)211-11.90.369
For homey food, pizza, ethnic cuisine and modern mezze
Kyveli
Opened in 2016, Kyveli has gradually become one of the neighborhood's classic meeting spots. Located on Agios Georgios Square, it welcomes guests in a relaxed atmosphere and with well-executed mezze dishes. The restaurant is named after actress Kyveli Adrianou, as a nod to the area’s long-standing theater history.
We’d suggest trying black lentil tabbouleh, pan dishes with pork and liver, skioufihta pasta with pork fillet, as well as grilled meats. It’s the kind of place best enjoyed with a group and a few beers (Kyveli boasts a large variety) to share around the table. If the weather is good, the outdoor tables across the square are by far the nicest place to sit.
Kyveli. 15 Eptanisou St., Kypseli. Tel: (+30)210-82.19.406
Allios
Allios, which opened in summer 2023, is a proper modern kafeneio (coffeehouse). Wooden chairs, mosaic floors, tsipouro bottles and small meze plates give it the atmosphere of an old-school Greek café, while the industrial-style walls, lighting and open kitchen bring in a more modern touch. It is rooted in tradition, but with a more contemporary and carefully designed feel.
In the mornings, they serve expertly prepared Greek coffee made in a briki pot, alongside simple breakfast dishes exactly as you would expect in a traditional Greek kafeneio: bread with olive oil, tomato and cheese, eggs with cold cuts, bread with jam and butter, or yogurt with honey and walnuts.
As the day goes on, the mezze start arriving. Highlights include fried eggs with pastourma and grated feta, steaming fried potatoes cut into small cubes and classic meatballs served with a yogurt dip. The boiled greens are cooked just enough to retain texture, while the real surprise is the fried okra paired with velvety taramosalata - crunchy, addictive and easy to snack on endlessly.
Allios. 17–19 Kerkyra St., Kypseli. Tel: (+30)698-33.93.663
¡Topa!
¡Topa! is the latest venture from the team behind Oinoscent - Aris Sklavenitis, Danis Agapitos and their friend chef Giannis Tsikoudakis. Since opening in Kypseli just a few months ago, it has quickly become one of the area’s most talked-about new restaurants thanks to its unusual combination of Cretan and Basque influences.
The name comes from the Basque word “topa”, meaning “cheers”, the toast exchanged while clinking glasses. It also inevitably recalls the Greek “opa”, which fits perfectly with the restaurant’s lively and sociable atmosphere. Everything here is designed to be shared slowly and casually around the table.
The menu changes frequently depending on the season and available ingredients, but the philosophy remains the same: straightforward, flavorful food served to share, with respect for its origins. Don’t be surprised to see high-quality tinned sardines or mussels on the menu - in Spain, preserved seafood is treated almost as an art form, with products that can rival fresh dishes in quality.
¡Topa! 43 Fokionos Negri St., Kypseli. Tel: (+30)210-86.60.889
Atlas
Another recent addition that immediately stood out in the neighborhood is Atlas, a modern mezedopoleio with retro aesthetics, refined Greek cooking and a strong wine and spirits list.
Its logo - a stork carrying a plate of food - cleverly references the childhood story about where babies come from while also perfectly matching the restaurant’s playful atmosphere. It’s an easy place to settle into for a relaxed evening with friends.
Among the dishes are tabbouleh with black raisins, grilled pork chops with smoked glaze, meatballs with tomato sauce and xygalo cheese and veal with aubergine.
Atlas. 11 Filotimou & 57 Aiglis St., Kypseli. Tel: (+30)210-44.04.031
Dylan
This small Kypseli restaurant with its large central bar has become one of the neighborhood's best spots for dinner and wine. The concise menu - around ten dishes- changes with the seasons and focuses on thoughtful Greek cooking using quality ingredients.
The prawns with tarama, coated in panko and served in a rich and surprising sausage-based sauce are particularly memorable, while the baby lettuce salad is unexpectedly excellent.
The restaurant takes its name from Dylan Thomas and his famous line: “Life always offers you a second chance; it’s called tomorrow.” In other words, whether tonight turns out brilliantly or badly hardly matters - tomorrow is always there for another decision, another night out, another experience.
Dylan. 38 Agias Zonis St., Kypseli. Tel: (+30)210-86.68.899
Soula Rustic Food
Tucked away in a small alley just a few meters from Agia Zoni, Soula Rustic Food is a well-kept little cookshop serving genuinely comforting home-style dishes at excellent prices. You can enjoy the food in their cozy space until around 7 or 8 in the evening, have it to go, or order it for delivery at home.
Here, Andreas Kyvelos cooks with simplicity and warmth, following the kind of unfussy, deeply satisfying recipes he learned from his mother, Soula, and his Maniot grandmother, Andromachi. The menu ranges from Maniot pies, briam, lemon veal and veal in tomato sauce to baked burger patties, silky fava, goulash and chickpea stew.
There are also Georgian influences on the menu thanks to Natia, the owner of the Georgian bakery Marili mentioned earlier, who contributes recipes from her homeland and supplies the restaurant with fresh bread. That’s why you’ll also find excellent khinkali - the Georgian dumplings filled with minced meat and folded into pouch-like shapes - as well as traditional khachapuri.
Soula Rustic Food. 10 Xanthis St., Kypseli. Tel: (+30)211-40.71.399
Tastes of Damascus
Tastes of Damascus brings a little piece of Syria to the heart of Kypseli. Run by a Syrian family, the small restaurant spills onto the pedestrian street with outdoor tables perfect for a relaxed meal.
The falafel wrap is among the best around - generous, crisp and full of flavor. The tabbouleh is beautifully balanced, allowing each ingredient to stand out without overpowering the others. The hummus and mutabbal are equally strong, while the syrupy filo sweets bring unmistakable Middle Eastern aromas to the table.
Tastes of Damascus. 19 Fokionos Negri St., Kypseli. Tel: (+30)211-11.77.714
Lisa
Lisa has become one of Kypseli’s most beloved pizza spots and now regularly fills up with crowds looking for a table. Located on Fokionos Negri, the restaurant bakes its pizzas in three impressive domed ovens and is known for its particularly thin, soft dough.
If you enjoy spicy flavors, the Lucifer pizza with spicy Italian sausage is a standout, as is their pepperoni version with salami and jalapeños. The Forest pizza, topped with mushrooms, truffle cream and mozzarella, is my personal favorite. Behind the menu is Stavros Tsamis, whose pizzas many Athenians already knew from Proveleggios before he focused fully on Lisa in Kypseli.
Lisa. 25 Fokionos Negri St., Kypseli. Tel: (+30)693-677-2165
Mary’s Tasty Dishes
There is something deeply comforting about proper home-cooked food displayed behind a counter full of trays that instantly makes choosing impossible. That is exactly the appeal of Mary’s Tasty Dishes, the corner cookshop on Agios Georgios Square that serves classic Greek comfort food without unnecessary embellishment - just honest, familiar flavors.
The menu includes both staples and seasonal dishes, pies, salads, fish and meat, attracting a wonderfully mixed crowd: theater-goers, students, couples, older locals and anyone looking for a satisfying meal at reasonable prices. From lunchtime until the early hours of the morning, it remains one of the neighborhood's most reliable comfort-food spots.
Mary’s Tasty Dishes. 2–4 Ydras St., Agios Georgios Square, Kypseli. Tel: (+30)210-82.29.239
For drinks
Kokoras
For years Kypseli lacked a proper rooftop bar - until Kokoras arrived. Relaxed, unpretentious and full of character, it quickly became one of the area’s favorite evening spots.
The name was inspired by a rooster graffiti painted on the building, while the location itself once housed the artists’ hangout “The Rooster’s Egg”. In summer, the rooftop offers views stretching all the way to the Acropolis, while in winter the space closes with glass panels so it remains comfortable year-round.
The drinks menu includes both classic and signature cocktails, beers from small breweries and regular DJ sets covering all kinds of music every Friday and weekend.
Kokoras. 40 Sporadon St., Kypseli. Tel: (+30)698-980-7667
Logiotatos
Logiotatos feels like something out of a medieval fairytale. Its courtyard offers a calm atmosphere with low music and space for conversation before the energy gradually shifts indoors later in the night for dancing till the early morning. The cocktail list is especially strong, with inventive drinks that stand out without feeling overcomplicated. On weekends, though, it’s worth arriving early - the place fills quickly and getting in later can become difficult.
Logiotatos. 70 Ioannou Drosopoulou St., Athens. Tel: (+30)210-82.19.005
Eprepe
Eprepe opened in Kypseli in 2022 and almost immediately became one of the neighborhood's go-to bars, even before the area’s nightlife fully exploded. Nikolas Moschonas curates a cocktail list built around classics with thoughtful twists, while the wine list focuses entirely on natural wines from small Greek producers. Seasonal bar food rounds out the experience.
Eprepe. 1 Agias Zonis St., Kypseli. Tel: (+30)210-86.44.910
Au Revoir
One of Athens’ most legendary bars sits quietly on Patision Street without flashy signs or fanfare. You usually recognize Au Revoir only by the crowd gathered outside smoking and chatting over drinks.
The bar opened in 1958, founded by brothers Lysandros and Theodoros Papatheodorou, and remains an Athenian institution to this day. Inside, the large glass frontage, vintage atmosphere and upstairs seating area make it especially good for late-night conversations or dates. The drinks remain classic and timeless, just like the bar itself.
Au Revoir. 136 Patision (28is Oktovriou), Athens. Tel: (+30)210-82.30.474
Teleion
One of the newest arrivals in Kypseli, Teleion transformed from a pastry shop into a bar while still retaining traces of its sweet-shop past. Music is central to the identity here, with jazz taking the lead and nothing allowed to disrupt it - which is why you won’t hear cocktail shakers clattering behind the bar.
Instead, the drinks, curated by Popi Sevastou, are designed to be elegant and understated. The 50/50 Martini with sherry, ginger and citrus is particularly excellent. It’s the sort of place ideal for catching up with an old friend over thoughtful drinks and long conversation.
Teleion. 40 Ithakis St., Kypseli
