Unlike many Greek islands, Kastellorizo has retained its architectural character almost intact. Rows of elegant pastel-colored houses line the harbor; the streets are impeccably kept, and every building seems perfectly in place. The whole island has the charm of a beautifully preserved film set.
Translation | Amaryllis Tsegou
Life revolves around the harbor -known locally as Kordoni- which occupies almost the entire inhabited part of the island. Days unfold slowly over long coffees, swims from the hotel jetties into crystal-clear water (there are no sandy beaches here), leisurely seafood meals, and one last dip before bed, taking advantage of the rare winds and almost tropical temperatures that last well into the evening.
Officially known as Megisti, the island offers one of the most relaxing holidays you'll find in Greece. It also makes an excellent base for exploring the nearby Turkish coast and the ancient Lycian sites just across the water. Covering only nine square kilometers, Kastellorizo once occupied a strategic position on the trade routes linking Syria, Cyprus, Constantinople and northern Europe, which explains why it changed hands so many times throughout its history. Perhaps that's what makes Kastellorizo so fascinating: nowhere else in Greece feels quite so paradoxical. Nestled just off the Turkish coast, yet unmistakably Greek, it occupies a unique place both geographically and culturally.
The moment you arrive at the harbor, you'll be amazed by its beauty and immediately notice the many civilizations that have left their mark all over the island.
What not to miss
- Perched high above the harbor, the Castle -or Castel Rosso, from which the island takes its name- is at its most impressive at sunset, when its stone walls glow a deep shade of red.
- Just below the castle lies a 4th-century Lycian rock-cut tomb, the only monument of its kind in Greece. With sweeping sea views, it's one of the island's most atmospheric spots to watch the sun sink below the horizon.
- Since 1903, generations of Kastellorizo's children have attended the Santrapeia School, an imposing neoclassical building inspired by the Propylaea of the University of Athens and donated by the island's benefactor, Loukas Santrapes. Today, it also houses the Historical and Folklore Museum.
- Life on Kastellorizo has always been closely linked to the Turkish town of Kas and it's well worth crossing over yourself. Daily boats connect the two, making it easy to spend the day wandering through colorful bazaars, enjoying excellent food, and taking a swim before returning to the island in the afternoon. If you want to explore more of the Turkish coastline, you can also hire a car or boat from Kas.
- Don’t miss out on a boat trip to the Blue Cave and the nearby islets of Agios Georgios and Ro. It's an unforgettable experience that reveals a side of the Aegean unlike anything you'll find in the Cyclades or elsewhere.
- Above everything else, Kastellorizo is all about the sea. Rent a boat and spend the day exploring its crystal-clear waters, hidden coves, and spectacular sea caves, including Fotsaliki, Kolones, Arnaoutis, Katrantzis, and, of course, the magnificent Blue Cave.
An island made for walking
Kastellorizo is small enough to explore entirely on foot, with a network of circular trails that reveal its beautifully preserved stone paths, rugged landscapes, traditional dry-stone walls and sweeping views across the Aegean.
Possibly the most beautiful is the stone-paved path leading to Agios Georgios tou Vounou (St George of the Mountain), reached via 400 comfortable enough climbing steps. Equally rewarding is the trail to Paleokastro, the island's ancient acropolis. Another beautiful stone path leads to Cape Agios Stefanos and the summit of Mount Mounda.
The French Trail is another route worth following. Built in 1915 by French troops after they occupied the island, it was originally used to transport cannons down from the fortifications. Today it ends at the secluded bay of Navlakas, an idyllic spot for a swim. If you don't fancy the return walk, you can arrange for a boat to pick you up.
Experienced hikers can tackle the island's 11-kilometre trail, which crosses Kastellorizo from one end to the other. It's one of the most otherworldly experiences imaginable, passing through untouched landscapes that seem visible only to God and the island's eagles. At the end of the route, you can arrange a boat to collect you from Cape Pounenti.
Unforgettable Experiences
- For many visitors, the Blue Cave -also known as Fokiali- is reason enough to come to Kastellorizo. One of the largest sea caves in the Mediterranean, it's a rare geological wonder where the water glows an almost unreal shade of electric blue. The cave is accessible only by boat or inflatable dinghy, ideally early in the morning when the sunlight pours directly through its entrance. Swim among schools of colorful fish, admire the brilliant white stalactites overhead, and look out for the white doves nesting on the cave walls. If you're especially lucky, you might even spot one of the Mediterranean monk seals that occasionally shelter here.
- If you're visiting around 15 August, don't miss one of the island's most memorable traditions. Late in the afternoon on 14 August, take Kastellorizo's only taxi to the airport, then follow the footpath alongside local pilgrims as they make their way up to Paleokastro. Surrounded by Cyclopean walls, ancient ruins and panoramic Aegean views, the tiny chapel of Panagia Paleokastritissa stands on the site of the ancient acropolis. After the candlelit service, everyone gathers in the courtyard to share a traditional feast of stuffed goat, dolmadakia (stuffed vine leaves) and magnificent homemade desserts.
The best places to eat
- You'll probably find yourself spending more time than planned at Faros (Tel. +30 22460 49509), the island's popular all-day beach bar. Come in your swimsuit and settle in for coffee, cocktails, light bites, sushi and refreshing swims in the crystal-clear sea just steps from your table.
- Right on the waterfront, Lazarakis (Tel. +30 69323 60273) has become Kastellorizo's go-to seafood restaurant, attracting yacht owners and discerning visitors alike. The menu revolves around impeccably fresh fish, Symi shrimp, raw seafood dishes, seafood pasta and risotto.
- If you're craving something other than seafood, head to Old Time (Tel. +30 22460 49363). Set beneath a canopy of grapevines overlooking the harbor, this welcoming taverna is known for its excellent stuffed onions, melt-in-your-mouth local goat with potatoes, stuffed squid in tomato sauce, chickpea fritters and generous home-style cooking.
- For an authentic island experience, Paragadi (Tel. +30 22460 49396) is hard to beat. Filled with flowers and set right beside the sea, it's run by a fishing family whose own boat supplies the day's catch. Order the fish soup, Symi shrimp, fragrant chickpea fritters, baked eggplant and top notch fresh fish.
- Perched almost on top of the water, Alexandra (Tel. +30 22460 49019) is the ideal place to discover Kastellorizo's traditional seafood dishes, such as octopus stifado, octopus fritters, exceptionally fresh fish, grilled meats, and oven-baked stuffed goat.
- Most locals still know it by its old name, Tis Ypomonis, although today it's called Billy's (Tel. +30 22460 49224), run by Vasilis, the grandson of the original owners. His expertise lies on the charcoal grill, turning out superb fish and meat, while his mother, Despoina, prepares favorites such as Symi shrimp pasta, baked eggplants and excellent fried zucchini. The waterfront tables are an added bonus.
- Tucked away in a picturesque square higher up the village, Platania (Tel. +30 22460 49206) remains one of Kastellorizo's enduring favorites. Don't leave without trying the slow-cooked goat, homemade stuffed vine leaves, stuffed onions and the traditional goat with pilaf.
What to Taste
Kastellorizo is a dream destination for seafood lovers. Fresh fish, shellfish and lobster feature on almost every menu, but if there's one local specialty not to miss, it's germanos - a prized fish with delicate white flesh that's found mainly in the Dodecanese and rarely elsewhere in Greece.
The island is also known for its excellent wild goat, traditionally stuffed with rice, cumin and fresh herbs before being slow-baked in the oven. Other local favorites include octopus fritters, chickpea fritters, stuffed onions and stuffed squid.
For dessert, try koutoumari, a spiral-shaped fried pastry drizzled with honey and dusted with cinnamon and cloves, or strava - crisp rolls of pastry filled with walnuts, sugar, cinnamon and cloves, then fried until golden and soaked in syrup.
